Home – Local joy

Home – Local joy 

Home is sacred. If home is in our hearts, as surfers we can feel more at home in the ocean than on land. Surfing soothes our body, mind and soul. It’s like the ocean is always beckoning us into the water to experience its magic. The ocean can bring us to life as we play amongst the waves. It’s where our heart truly belongs as we experience so much joy. Feeling so fresh, so free.

There is so much peace to be found in nature’s playground. Our home beach can be a very special place. Whether it’s a place where you currently live or a place where you were born and raised; our local beach can provide a refuge, safety and a security that fills our hearts with a comforting joy.

There is a sense of belonging experienced at our local breaks. The familiar faces of local friends, paddling out in the line up and appreciating the enchantment of a place you have spent so many hours, days, months and even years playing in the ocean. Knowing the beach and the way the surf likes to dance and curl with the environment. The tides, wind direction and what swells work best. Every day is unique and each experience as precious as the next.

 

Arriving home

Walking across the sand or rocks as you head out to play is so exciting – there is so much fun to be had! Anticipation builds as you watch the waves, inhale the familiar scent of ocean spray and listen to the soothing sounds of waves crashing and the tide lapping on the shore. Entering the ocean is amazing. The joy of duck diving and feeling so cleansed and refreshed. Then as you catch your first wave you can’t help but smile. Surfing is bliss. Nothing compares to the feeling of freedom as you jump to your feet and ride across the open face. It’s like a canvas. How will you express yourself today? How fast will you travel? Ducking and weaving: turning, twisting and twirling. How will you flow with the wave you are given?

It’s so incredible that no two waves are ever the same. The wave you are given will only ever appear once. It will rise and fall – how long your ride lasts for will be different every time.   

   Learning how to fine tune your act so you can make the most of each wave and express yourself with smooth grace and style comes from time spent in the water and getting into the rhythm of the ocean.

The friendships that are made through surfing can be the strongest of bonds as you experience the same unique joy of connecting to something so pure. There can be a sense of community at any given surf spot and a history to learn about and respect.

It’s such a joy watching the new kids coming through or a new surfer as they begin to discover the captivating experience of catching a wave. Even watching someone who has surfed for a lifetime as they experience the same surf stoke can be such an uplifting experience.

Learning to dance together

Your environment teaches you. You can learn from watching others and how they do it. As you observe the environment and its conditions, as well as time spent in the water you can learn how to read a wave and flow with it.

         Your intuition can be a very helpful tool. When we are present with what is happening then we can have so much fun. Surfing is almost like a meditation. You have to be aware and alert otherwise a wave can pick you up and dump you. Nature is so powerful and the ocean has many moods. Sometimes it will be calm and still; other times like a turbulent, raging beast.

We are so fortunate to be able to play in the ocean so may we all have gratitude, respect and appreciation for a place that can offer us so much joy, comfort and peace. 

Love Ash

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